Chefs Joe Rojas and Josh Hasho are in charge of the kitchen at this new Frisco hot spot, tucked inside the Omni Frisco PGA Resort.

They’re tweaking contemporary steakhouse standards with modern, unexpected touches like employing prime ribeye cap in their steak tartare, roasting mushrooms with slicks of tamari and garlic, and tumbling orecchiette pasta with cheddar, gouda and fontina cheeses, then crowning the dish with slices of lobster meat.

The small dining room wraps around a horseshoe-shaped bar where Cinnamon, a glass-bauble horse sculpture frozen in mid-stride, dangles from the ceiling and reminds hotel guests they’re in Texas. Dark and broody, yet irresistibly welcoming, Trick Rider is one of the region’s best new steakhouses and worth an effort to visit.