Dining Out
OPENINGS
Photo courtesy of See’s Candies
See’s Candies sweetens the Town Square
We can’t get enough of the retro-chic company’s chocolates and candies first made by Mary See in her Pasadena home kitchen (she was born in Ontario, Canada, but joined her son in California after the death of her husband). Long a nationally known brand, See’s opens a shop Nov. 9 in Southlake Town Square (the former Janie and Jack space). The family-owned company is winding up its centennial celebration this year and still uses many of its matriarch’s original recipes, including those for peanut brittle, Victoria toffee, pictured, and chocolate walnut fudge. Fun fact: It was See’s candy-makers working off conveyor belts who inspired Lucille Ball’s manic turn in a chocolate factory for the iconic episode of I Love Lucy.
409 Grand Ave. E., Southlake, 800-347-7337, sees.com
HOLIDAYS
Let’s talk turkey
Last November, Greenberg Smoked Turkeys experienced a fire and explosion at its Tyler storage facilities. This year, Greenberg is back, to the delight of those who have made the hickory-smoked bird part of their holiday ritual. If you haven’t ordered one, Central Market stores again will be selling them in their meat departments. CM also is offering a variety of fresh turkeys. You can place your order now; deadline for Thanksgiving is Nov. 22.
Photo courtesy of Greenberg Smoked Turkeys
ON THE MOVE
The Fredburger and a cold one: This classic combo will live on at the new location of Fred’s Texas Cafe. Photo by Ralph Lauer
Fred’s Texas Cafe is heading west
The iconic Fort Worth burger joint/cafe shocked a few people when it announced it was leaving its Currie Street location, home for 40 years, for bigger digs at 7101 Camp Bowie Blvd. The corner location was home to Buffalo West and, before that, Steak & Ale. Fred’s owners, who purchased it in 1978, are retiring and selling the corner spot, which has seen massive development go up around it. Quincy Wallace, co-owner with Terry Chandler, says they had been looking for a third spot after closing the TCU-area location and were already in early talks with the owner which they will be leasing. Wallace says they look forward to a bigger kitchen, dining space and patio, and much more parking. “We’ll bring touches of Fred’s with us but we really want to focus on food: Terry’s Friday-night specials and maybe even brunch.” As far as their Dec. 31 exit plans, Wallace says they want to close out with cool music, good food and a lot of friends. Look for an early spring opening date at the new Fred’s.
DALLAS
Singing the praises of National Anthem
As anyone who has visited Neighborhood Services, Town Hearth and Montlake Cut will attest, Dallas chef Nick Badovinus has built a career on comfort foods served with sides of bling and patriotic nostalgia. His newest, called National Anthem, is a cruise down the same country road. Adorned with a reclaimed neon sign, white subway tiles and wood plank floors, the restaurant sits inside the repurposed Magnolia Oil building, the triangle-shaped landmark on the eastern edge of downtown Dallas that originally housed an auto service station in the 1920s and the broadcast studios for KLIF-AM radio in the 1960s. National Anthem extends Badovinus’ penchant for Americana beyond traditional burgers, salads and deviled eggs, incorporating broad, multicultural riffs in dishes such as karaage-style chicken thighs tumbled in Buffalo sauce, tuna poke spiked with guajillo chile oil and a grilled flat iron steak served alongside cheese enchiladas and pork belly carnitas.
2130 Commerce St., Dallas, nationalanthemdtx.com
Nico’s: Pizza with a Mexican flair
Next time you find yourself craving both tacos and pizza, check out Nico’s MX Pizzeria and Cocktails Venue. Chef Manny Reyes (whose resume includes Grimaldi’s Coal Brick-Oven Pizzeria and Cane Rosso) and co-owner Nico Ponce turn out blistered pies topped with ingredients more commonly tucked into Mexico City tortillas (salsa verde, suadero beef, edible marigolds) than atop pizzas.
18160 Dallas Parkway, Dallas, nicosmxpizzeria.com
El Relleno is topped with a trio of deep-fried poblano chiles. Photo by Kathy Tran
Photo courtesy of Osadía
Osadía Club: A new spirit At the AAC
After finding success in multifamily real estate, Scott Everett, co-founder of S2 Capital, has launched his own brand of small-batch blue agave tequila called Osadía, which translates to “boldness” or “audacity.” The label is slowly making its way into a handful of Fort Worth and Dallas restaurants (Mesero and Mexican Sugar plan to carry it). The super-premium spirit is also poured at American Airlines Center, where Everett has partnered with the Stars and the Mavericks to open the Osadía Club. Located on the platinum level and open to the public during home games, the club sells food and specialty Osadía tequila cocktails.
Learn more at osadiatequila.com.
Sugarman’s opens in the Hotel Revel
Fort Worth’s Hotel Revel now has a cocktail lounge that complements its sleek contemporary vibe. No surprise there, as architect Bart Shaw of Ibañez-Shaw Architecture is responsible for both. Located on the ground floor, Sugarman’s is accessible only through the hotel entrance, which is in the rear just off the parking lot. There’s no lobby (it’s self check-in); proceed through the glass doors and into the bar. In the daytime, it’s bright and inviting. In the evening, it sparkles in the low light. No matter the time of day, we appreciate the minimal design. It’s cool but not cold, thanks to all the polished birch plywood furniture. The bar floats in the narrow space — you can walk around it — with a perforated steel panel used on the backside, which fronts a wall of windows. In turn, it allows light in, creating a nice visual effect as it transfuses all the glassware and bottles. There’s plenty of seating at the long bar and the banquette. There’s also a scattering of small tables and, outdoors, a patio with lounge furniture faces the street. The specialty cocktail menu was still being tweaked on our visit but, in a sly nod to Fort Worth dive bars — most are no longer with us — there’s something about each cocktail that pays homage to the past. Local craft beers are available, as is a limited selection of wine. The martinis are strong and service was smooth when we stopped in. If you need a little something to eat, check out Ober Here, the Filipino food truck that uses the hotel parking lot for its regular evening gig. Sugarman’s also is inviting other trucks for dining options. They’re experimenting with open times, but happy hour runs until 7 p.m. every day.
Sugarman’s 1165 8th Ave., Fort Worth, 817-928-3688, sugarmans.wtf
Even in the daytime, Sugarman’s had a sexy feel to it. We love the design details — the interesting lighting, the industrial carpeting, the heavy cocktail glasses. Drinks and service were both smooth. Photo by Meda Kessler