Radar
By Meda Kessler
In Fort Worth, a familiar face opens her first restaurant with a nod to family and a good, old-fashioned burger. Lili’s Bistro returns, as does Paris Coffee Shop, where the pies are better than ever.
Cool off with Key lime pie at Paris Coffee Shop. Photo by Meda Kessler
Paris Coffee Shop: Pie, please
The lunch lines have been long, really long, at the new and newly opened Paris on Magnolia Avenue. (We’re saying “new” because many things, from the hefty silverware and glass cups to the comfortable booths and counter stools, are just that.) They’re not serving dinner just yet due to the staffing situation, but breakfast still has that old-school diner feel with hefty oval plates piled with eggs, hash browns and toast. And a coffee cup rarely stays empty. Then there are the pies. Pastry chef Addie Hubler is working to keep up with demand. We say: Eat dessert first.
704 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth, 817-945-1702, facebook.com/ParisCoffeeShopftw
JD’s Hamburgers serves up history with its burgers
Gigi Howell (Reata, 203 Café) pays tribute to her family and gives a nod to her west Fort Worth roots with this casual burger bar/cafe, slated to open this month if city permitting goes well. Westland might seem off the beaten path, but it’s — as Gigi would say — a hop, skip and a jump off of the “loop,” referring to I-820. And it’s a boon for an area that’s a bit of a restaurant desert. Howell’s family still lives in Westland, including her uncle Bo Jimeson, who looks like he stepped out of a cowboy casting call and who has served as general contractor for the restoration of the former bar. Funny fact: Bo’s real name is Joe Douglas and Gigi’s real name is Jennifer Denise. And then there’s JD Jimeson. Gigi’s grandfather was a long-haul trucker who started his career when he was 12, according to Gigi. You can’t miss the photo of JD hanging over one of the booths.
Gigi Howell broke in her flattop griddle at the Fort Worth Food + Wine Festival.
Bo Jimeson and Gigi Howell have transformed an old dive bar into a welcoming cafe. JD Jimeson is shown in the photo on the wall behind them. Jessica Birge, Gigi’s partner, got the vintage tobacco tins from her grandfather. Photos by Jill Johnson
You can talk history at the cafe and then dig into a simple menu of not-too-fancy burgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese sandwiches and cafe specials. There’s a full bar with a special draught beer, the Westland Rattler, made by Martin House Brewing Company in Fort Worth. Kids get their own menu and room to roam in the spacious backyard, which also will feature a small stage for live music. The interior has undergone a dramatic makeover with booths, four-tops and bar seating; the kitchen is located in a detached shipping container custom-built by an Arizona company. Gigi’s business partners include Bourke Harvey, Holman Harvey, and Joanna and Brendan Bennett (who own nearby Westland Gardens).
9901 Camp Bowie West Blvd., Fort Worth, jdshamburgers.com