By Hannah Barricks
Photography by Thanin Viriyaki
At Sushi Kozy, quiet precision has always been part of the appeal. Tucked into a downtown Dallas space that favors intimacy over spectacle, the Michelin-recommended restaurant has built a reputation on balance, seasonality, and an omakase experience that unfolds deliberately, course by course. This winter, the restaurant enters a new chapter with the appointment of Chef RJ Yoakum as chef de cuisine, working alongside chef-owner Paul Ko.
Yoakum joined Sushi Kozy on Jan. 3, bringing with him a résumé shaped by some of the world’s most respected kitchens. At 31, the Southern California native has cooked in San Francisco, New York, Chicago, and London, before spending three and a half years at The French Laundry, where seasonality, sourcing, and technical excellence form the foundation of every plate.
After Napa Valley, Yoakum relocated to Dallas, where he served as executive chef of Georgie, leading the restaurant to its first Michelin Recommended designation. His leadership earned him a James Beard Award finalist nod in 2025 and helped define one of the city’s most closely watched fine-dining programs, rooted in close relationships with Texas farmers and artisans.
At Sushi Kozy, that background translates seamlessly into the restaurant’s kaiseki-inspired approach. While omakase is often described simply as “chef’s choice,” kaiseki introduces a more nuanced rhythm, weaving raw fish, cooked dishes, soups, and composed small plates into a progression shaped by the seasons. The result is an experience defined as much by restraint as by creativity.
Chef-owner Paul Ko brings more than 17 years of experience as a sushi chef to the counter. After joining Uchi in 2017, Ko spent seven years refining his craft and rising to head sushi chef before opening Sushi Kozy. Inspired by his surname, which translates to “small” or “child,” the restaurant was designed as a space where guests slow down, engage, and experience sushi with intention.
“RJ’s background and mindset align seamlessly with our philosophy,” Ko says. “His addition allows us to push forward thoughtfully while staying true to the soul of what we do.”
Yoakum echoes that sentiment, noting that Sushi Kozy’s blend of tradition and creativity drew him to the role. At the counter, his approach emphasizes consistency, collaboration, and respect for the ingredients and the people behind them — values shaped both by his fine dining background and his years as an athlete.
With Yoakum’s arrival, Sushi Kozy’s omakase experience continues to evolve, grounded in modern technique and intentional sourcing while remaining warm, measured, and quietly confident — hallmarks that have defined the restaurant from the start.
THE DETAILS
200 Ross Ave., Suite 150, Dallas, sushikozy.com