By June Naylor
Photos by Ralph Lauer
As we hope for cooler temperatures, warm up your taste buds with these wings from chef Ed McOwen.
When homesick for his native Buffalo, New York, chef Ed McOwen finds comfort in a platter of wings. With partner Jon Bonnell, whose Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine is where he hangs his toque most often, McOwen opened Buffalo Bros Pizza Wings & Subs a decade ago across from TCU. With the opening in Sundance Square, more people can discover the flavors from his childhood: wings mopped in a warm, spicy sauce perfectly countered by a creamy blue cheese dressing (make it one day ahead). Ask your butcher to separate jumbo wings at the joint for ease in cooking, and fry twice for great texture.
Buffalo Bros Chicken Wings
- 5 pounds jumbo wings
- 4-6 cups canola oil
To make sauce In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine 3 cups bottled hot sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot; and 1 cup butter, stirring to dissolve butter. Keep warm over very low heat. (For a spicier version, use less butter.) Reserve some sauce for dipping.
To make wings In a deep, heavy pan, pour oil to a depth of 2 inches and heat to 360 degrees. Pat wings dry with paper towels. Cook in batches for 8 to 10 minutes. Don’t crowd the pan, and stir occasionally to keep wings from sticking. Add oil and check temperature as needed. Using tongs, remove wings to sheet pan covered in paper towels. Increase oil temperature to 375 degrees and fry drained wings again for 2 to 4 minutes or to desired crispiness. Drain on fresh paper towels. In a large bowl, toss wings with warm sauce (recipe below) to coat. (Keep sauced wings warm in 250-degree oven till all are ready to serve.) Note: If using a deep fryer, follow same instructions, shaking wings to drain between rounds of frying.
To serve Pile wings on a platter and present with reserved hot sauce and blue cheese dressing (recipe follows; make a day ahead for best flavor) for dipping, along with chilled celery and carrot sticks — and lots of napkins.
To make dressing In a large bowl, combine 1 cup good-quality mayonnaise, such as Duke’s; with ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sour cream;
¾ cup grated or finely crumbled blue cheese, such as Gorgonzola; and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce. Add sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Whisk until blended. Cover and refrigerate overnight to meld flavors. Serve cool.
Buffalo Bros Pizza Wings & Subs Open for lunch and dinner daily at two locations in Fort Worth: 3015 S. University Drive, 817-386-9601; Sundance Square, 415 Throckmorton St., 817-887-9533; buffalobrostexas.com.