Chef and co-owner Toby Archibald hails from New Zealand, where farm-to-table cooking is foundational.

Quarter Acre is his nod to that Kiwi sensibility, filtered through Texas’ more limited bounty.

Curved booths give a cozy feel to Quarter Acre.

“A quarter acre is a normal residential plot of land in New Zealand,” our server told us during our visit. “Toby thinks of this restaurant as his quarter acre, a place where he cooks for friends and pretends there’s a white picket fence and a dog out front.”

We’re happy to pull up a chair.

New Zealand salmon is smoked with cedar.

Recent hits include his cedar-smoked New Zealand salmon with shallot crema; roasted celeriac sweetened with raisins and toasted hazelnuts; and a knockout foie gras custard pie.

Get to this outstanding restaurant before everyone else discovers it.