Next time you find yourself in the heart of North Dallas and wonder why the city feels bereft of a polished, globally influenced bistro, pop into Au Troisieme to recalibrate your expectations.

Inside (or on the broad, shaded patio), escargot & foie gras and pan-roasted halibut anchor the tight one-page dinner menu. But don’t stop there; keep reading.

The fire-roasted octopus – braised in olive oil until fork-tender, then dressed with crisp coins of andouille sausage and fried potatoes – may be even better. Or pop in for lunch to order the New Style Cuban (Hawaiian kalua pig, ham, Swiss) and a bowl of Texas gumbo.

Even the French wouldn’t judge you harshly for that.