By Natalie Lozano Trimble
Photography by Thanin Viriyaki
The Mont’s menu features an entree called The Duck — a simple name that belies the preparation required. Once the duck is butchered, the breast is brined, glazed in a black garlic paste. Then, smoked, rested, seared and carved. The legs are treated to an overnight marinade followed by a slow roast with basting, per Culinary Director Michael Arlt. In total, it takes ten recipes to plate the dish, served with foie fried rice, scallion crepe, maple nuoc cham, a Vietnamese dipping sauce that uses maple syrup as a sweetener, and turnip and cucumber pickles.
“People who pay money and want to go out typically want something that they couldn’t just whip together at the house,” Arlt says.
The entree’s thoughtfulness and intricacy reflect the care put into planning The Mont, which opened in August. Arlt joined Jeff Payne and Jason Cross, the respective Owner and Vice President of Operations of Cousins BBQ, in October 2023.
Payne and Cross knew they wanted to open something outside of barbecue, but were still refining the concept. After a multi-week trip to Houston, New Orleans and Chicago, where Arlt worked before moving to Fort Worth in 2020, he says the three of them agreed that they wanted to create something thought-provoking but approachable and fun yet sophisticated.
They paired their New American menu with a mid-century modern interior designed by Maven, with striking green and gold elements that transport you back in time. The east-facing patio and dining room offer the Rolls-Royce of storm-watching, Arlt says, and The Mont’s name is a nod to the Montserrat neighborhood behind it.
They’ve tried to keep the neighborhood in mind with a more relaxed bar menu for the weeknight regulars who post up and chat for a few hours, sometimes before entrees and sometimes before cooking at home.
The dinner menu includes a lobster fricassee, venison schnitzel and tagliatelle with housemade pasta. Their steaks range from an 8-ounce filet to a 42-ounce tomahawk.
Executive Chef Michael Duff says they tried five or six different brands before deciding to serve Irodori from Creekstone Farms.
“It’s Cowtown,” Arlt says. “We have to have the best steak, period.”
Duff has been part of the team since May 2024, when several interviews and stages — cooking demonstrations — went long in the best way.
“I just absolutely love Jason and Jeff and Michael,” he says.
An Austin native who grew up on stories of his great-grandfather, a New York City chef, Duff came to Fort Worth to play golf for Texas Wesleyan. After switching to the culinary arts, he rose to the executive chef role at Eddie V’s.
Arlt grew up in Florida without anything, he says, but the experience of everyone gathering around the table for simple meals impacted him. “I saw the power of what food could do in somebody’s world. It never left me.”
His desire to bring people together led him to study at Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island. As the culinary director, he’s also preparing for the opening of their next concept downtown, Beverly’s, slated to open in the spring. For now, you can expect heartier dishes and braised meats on The Mont’s winter menu and a Christmas special, Arlt says.
The Mont’s bar opens at 4 p.m. daily. The restaurant is open for dinner service from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday through Thursday, and from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday.
Find the recipe for The Mont’s Royal Red Shrimp Risotto here.