Bishop Arts restaurant “Pillar” combines classic American bistro with unexpected twists

When the longstanding bistro Boulevardier closed unexpectedly, there was much neighborhood hand-wringing. Now an equally compelling restaurant called Pillar commands that Bishop Arts space. It’s difficult to pigeonhole chef-owner Peja Krstic’s cuisine at Pillar. He describes it as “American bistro with unexpected twists,” but the menu seems to circle the globe.

For a starter, he drapes a thin sheet of yellowtail tuna over crab remoulade, adding roasted ginger aioli and crispy shallot for a fresh, vibrant kick. His crisp-fried chicken dinner is all juice and crunch, glowing with nduja-spiced cream, honey butter and braised collard greens. And this being the year for French on the menu, Krstic steps up to the plate with an avant-garde version of cassoulet, employing pork ribs, roasted leeks and apples rather than the traditional confitted duck and tarbais beans. A spacious bar upfront and a nice patio complement the casual dining room.